Tetouan

Approx. Time: 8 hours
Activity Level: Easy to Moderate

Capital of Northern Morocco, Tetouan is situated in the midst of greenery. A belt of orchards, planted with orange, almond, pomegranate and cypress trees, encompasses dazzlingly white houses that cling to the Dersa hillside.

Nearby the somber, dim Rif Mountains emphasize the pleasant colors of the urban site that dominates the fertile Martil Valley.

Founded around 1305 by the Merinid Abou Tabit, the town served as a base for operations against Sebta and Later became a pirate's lair. The Spanish made life difficult in Tetouan and finally destroyed it.

However, the town was repopulated in the 16th century by the Moslems and the Jews who had been chased away from Andalusia.

The town prospered under the reign of Moulay Ismail.

Like Rabat, Fes and Sale, Tetouan is a "hedrya" town; that is, a centre of culture and refinement.

The streets wind among bluish white walls to open on to small squares, centers of intense activity. Early in the morning country women arrive to sell their wares. Enveloped in candy-striped clothes, wearing gaiters laced to the knee, and wide-brimmed straw hats decorated with pompoms, they offer butter, honey, vegetables and herbs to a lively, hurrying clientele.

Hassan II Square, situated at the point where the old and modern parts of the town converge, constitutes the heart of the city. Reminiscent of Andalusia with its kiosks, fountains and flower boxes, the square remains an ideal meeting point for afternoon strollers. Introduced at the time of the Spanish Protectorate, modern life continues to attract strolling crowds. Buildings with wrought iron balconies and shop windows filled with imported commodities fascinate the crowds of passersby.

Tetouan deserves its reputation as a cultural centre. The town contains many monuments: a fort, walls with well preserved fences, a number of mosques, fountains, foundouks and, last but not least, the Khalifa's old palace which used to be the residence of his Majesty's representative at the time of the Protecorrate. The palace was built in the 17th century, but was renovated and restored in 1948 in such a way that it retains its character and is an ideal example of Hispano-Mauresque architecture.

Two museums, a conservatory, a College of Fine Arts and a School of Moroccan Art are among the cultural establishments that Tetouan can be proud of.

Still, the most fascinating thing to visit in this beautiful town remains its meandering alleys that sometimes dive under large arches only to reappear in the light of a small square or lead into a dead end.

Tetouan holds many marvels, maintaining venerable traditions and a way of life that renders the city unique.

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